2005
Day One (Minus One) A prelude.
I wake up knowing that I have to stay up until at least 1.30 this morning. My day must be carefully planned so that I can fit everything in and then sleep at the right times on my way to NYC.
It's thrilling to know that in 36 hours I will not be in my untidy studio apartment, I will be in the capital of the world. I've been studying maps of the city and details of the areas / 5 boroughs for weeks, if not months. In a sense I've been studying the city for years through films. With a, no doubt, tightly packed day it is unlikely that I will be able to conclude my New York Movie Season by watching Midnight Cowboy.
Most of the films I've watched have tended to be pretty old (the 70s or period films). I don't imagine that large areas have changed that much. Question to self: how big is Times Square?
Day One - Proper
"I'm sitting in a railroad station, got a ticket for my destination..."
Except it's Heathrow Airport, Terminal 3. I have several hours to kill as it's only 8.30 and my flight is not until 1.15pm. It's too early to even check in my suitcase so I have to carry it round for another four hours.
The journey thus far not been without event. There was a collection of foreigners (is that a politically correct term?) at York Station. They seemed to have missed an earlier bus so the driver or coach captain was averse to letting them on. The bus was trying to pull away as one of them tried to board. There were cries of "don't push me,just because I'm a foreigner, don't push me".
There was continued arguing outside during which the police were called. I wasn't watching too closely because I was without glasses/contact lenses by that time. One of the foreigners punched one of the policemen and was duly arrested. I thought this was a good sigh and hoped we would now get moving.
I went to the toilet only to open the door on a young Japanese girl. I don't know who was more embarrassed. I think it was her. I think the darkness spared my blushes. When I returned to my seat my dream of spending the night on a double seat was shattered as one of the seats had been taken up by one of the less disgruntled foreigners. As I tried to sleep he continued to talk loudly on his phone. Sleep was further disturbed snoring, loud crisp packets (at 3 in the morning!) and a distinct lack of room for my long legs.
I did eventually if very briefly. I stopped trying to sleep at Golder's Green - somewhere I had been several times in my youth on the way to St Albans. London was mostly deserted at this time and was a bit like the opening of Vanilla Sky.
Further time was spent in Victoria Coach Station while I awaited my connection to Heathrow. It's almost 20 years since I was last here [in Heathrow] so I can't comment on any significant change. I thought there was a severe lack of facilities until I found the departure lounge at Terminal 3. I've had coffee and croissant for breakfast in the spirit of a New Yorker. I still have so much time to kill. I can't wait to get rid of my case and get on the plane.
I'm finally here. I accidentally turned my watch back on to the PROPER time and realised how late it is. It's only 7pm here but it's approaching midnight back home. I'm not bad considering I've been up since 9.20 UK time yesterday. I managed to get some sleep on the plane but not for any substantial length of time. As on the coach there was barely any leg room. And the women in front reclined her chair so that there was even less room. It was a very slow 6 or 7 hours. I had a window seat so I was at least able to see a few things as we arrived at The Americas. Nothing was recognisable. I'd heard that you can see the Statue Of Liberty as you fly in but I was clearly on the wrong side of the plane.
Immigration seemed like Ellis Island scenes in The Godfather 2. There was lines and lines of people of differing ethnicities. Things were not helped by the fact that the computer systems were down for about 30 minutes. I was standing with an ageing Scottish rocker who thought of himself as liberal and alternative but clearly wasn't. He kept repeating that "this is bullshit". I don't think they were saying .the systems were down for a laugh. He also moaned that it only took a few minutes to get in the last time he visited ten years ago. It would seem the repercussions of 9/11 had escaped his attention.
I finally got into the Land Of The Free and looked for a cab. I took heed of the Rough Guide's advice and ignored the independent taxi firms. We drove here through Spanish Harlem. We were on E 106 Street whereas this is W 106 Street. I was worrying that he was going to drop me off there but he got me here OK. I got glimpses of The City on the way here. I could make out the Chrysler Building and a bit of The Empire State . I couldn't help but grin at the sight of Shea Stadium. We drove along Central Park East and cut through the Park to come here. One doesn't realise how big it is until here.
I'm now in our dorm room awaiting Jim's return. The girl on reception's [word illegible] yesterday that I would be here at 7.30 was a tad pessimistic especially considering the farrago at Immigration. Add to that Jim's unconventional approach to time-keeping and I could have been waiting here a while longer.
The facilities are, as Jim said, scant. We're in a room of 4 bunk beds with very little space to put bags etc. If only I'd listened to Jim and been bothered to pack a bag instead of a suitcase. [Word could be 'Ultimately' or 'furthermore'], we're not going to be spending much time here so we've got a bed and a roof over our heads for about £13 a night.
I don't know what Jim's got planned for us tonight. I shall have to wait... and I hope not too much longer.
Supplementary thoughts on the day. This is the longest I have ever spent travelling alone. It's a strangely rewarding experience. I guess I feel there's a daft nobility in it as though it's a test of character. That said, it's only been 24 hours.
Day Three (Thursday)
Been here a while now so I will try and collect my thoughts and not forget what I've done.
On the first night Jim and I went out for a meal a few blocks away from the hostel and sat outside. I was absolutely exhausted after the journey. We then moved along to some bar called Underground. It's pretty near Columbia University so there was plenty of studenty types in there. We felt fairly at home as the music was recognisable. There doesn't appear to be a huge difference in fashions round here. It's not like a few years ago when they had mullets and rolled up the sleeves on their jackets.
Yesterday we intended to do the Ellis and Liberty Island things but the queues were too big.
Instead we saw the Financial District, Chinatown, Little Italy, Canal Street, Tribeca and later, the East Village. We went outside Robert De Niro's Tribeca Grill. You'd have no idea that it had anything to do with him. There was also no indication that it also houses his Tribeca Film Center and the Miramax NY Headquarters.
It was good to see areas which were clearly New York but not the typical areas. It was strange to see the change in areas in the space of a few blocks. From the affluence of the Financial District to the less affluent Chinatown. It was a bit like a theme park. In the evening we visited the boho East Village. I hope that we can look back in a number of years and say, "Oh yeah, we went to The Village in 2005" and look really cool. Saw 3 bands: World Leader Pretend - pulled too many stupid faces but musically OK. Jeff Klein - showed too much arse and didn't play anything I recognised. Last band was fairly forgettable and we were getting pretty drunk by that point.
There didn't appear to be an abundance if drinking. Very strange for a gig. No smoking either.
I participate but don't like the idea of tipping a barman everytime. All they're doing is turning around. It's hardly a service.
Argh... my fingers are hurting from this pen...
Went to Jesse Malin's bar. He wasn't there. Nice enough place and not commercial as it appears on the website. Got home via taxi fairly drunk. Waitress service @ the Mercury Lounge.
I'll write about today later when I'm not so tired.
And, that's where it ended in the journal. Therefore, I'm filling in some gaps with emails I sent:
Date: Tue, 17 May 2005 18:58:30 -0400
Subject: Re: Yawk!
To: "*************" <***************@h******l.com>
Alright soonsheeine!
Been here for a couple of days now. I'll keep this brief because I willbe sending a summary round to my mailing list. Whether people like it ornot.
Hostel is very very sparse. Sharing a cramped room with Jim and 6 or soother people. We've hardly been here and for $30 a night so what. Whatis the deal with tipping here? Tipping a barman? Why? They've only turnedround and got a bottle.
I've put loads of stuff on the 64MB memory card. Photos of everything.I only partially charged the phone today so it ran out just before we gotto the Empire State Building. I was able to use my phone though and Jim'sgot a proper camera.
Saw Jeff Klein last night at The Mercury Lounge in the East Village. I gotID-ed! They're so strict. The guy thought about it for a few minutes beforeletting me in. Klein was OK. Was only third on a bill of 4. Had neverheard of the headliners The Walk Up or the 2nd on the bill World Leader Pretend.WLP seemed to have a following and said they're on Warners. They were OK-ish.Not great. What will really prevent them from making any waves back homeis the ridiculous faces they pulled whilst playing their music.
Not seen much about the footy. Had a brief look on The Grauny earlier andI get The Fiver. FA Cup Final on Saturday morning. The MORNING! The bleedin'FA! Time diffo.
You should hear more in the next e-mail.
Date: Tue, 17 May 2005 19:18:53 -0400
From: ******************
Subject: Empire Strikes Back Building
To: *********
Buenos dias compadres,The second full day here. Yesterday Jim and I got the subway downtown toBattery Park and would have gone on the ferries to Ellis and Liberty Islandswere it not for the enormous queues. Instead we wandered over to the FinancialDistrict and saw Wall Street, The NY Stock Excange, Ground Zero and the WorldFinancial Center (sic).
We then wandered up to Chinatown, Little Italy, Tribeca and Canal Street.It was good to walk through the less tourist-orientated areas. We heardhardly any of the typical Noo Yoik accent yesterday as it seemed to be mostlylatino and Koreans/Chinese. Later in the evening we wandered over to TheEast Village and stood outside Jesse Malin's bar. We had dinner/tea beforegoing to see a few band in the Mercury Lounge. One of whom was Jeff Kleinwhose CD I have back home. He was alright but kept showing a builder's arsewhen he was plugging his equipment in.
Jim and I eventually got pretty drunk. We received a waitress service.I think the waitress must have realised she was onto a winner with a coupleof English/Welsh lads. People were drinking but not loads. There was onlyone urinal and a bog so these people obviously don't know how to drink.Nobody was smoking. It was pleasant but unusual.
Despite an audience member shouting, "you guys rokc" at the main act, Jimand I decided to make tracks and headed for Jesse Malin's bar. He wasn'taround. Real jazz was being played in the basement bar. No one at alllwas drinking. The tight-fisted gets!
Taxi home. Goodnight Vienna.
Woke very early with headache and inflamed bladder. Doesn't help that we'resharing a room with 6 other people and it's the smallest room in the world.I don't think it's any coincidence that it's Room 101.
Saw the more famous areas today. Wandered round Grand Central Station, thePublic Library (as seen in Ghostbusters), the Daily Planet building fromSuperman, UN headquarters (next to Trump Tower which is eff-ing massive).Allso did Times Square, Rockerfelllar Plaza, Radio City Music Hall tourand eventually the Empire State Building. It's pretty big. Fantastic viewsfor miles around. We might go back up again to see the city at night.
Pretty tired now so we've come back to the hostel for a break. We're venturingout again later.
Apologies for the typos but I get charged by the minute to use this thing.
Date: Thu, 19 May 2005 09:37:47 -0400
From: **************
Subject: hello
To: "***********" v*****.t***********************.co.uk
Hey, how ya doin;?
Star Wars day around the world. I've not seen it yet. We were in GreenwochVillage and Times Square last night and there was massive queues around theblock to see it. Jim's not that bothered about it so I don't think we'regoing to see it til Saturday. Damn!
We went into a comedy club last night but when we found out that the actwas a drag act we decided against staying there. We're doing loads of otherstuff too. there'll be few things that we won't have seen by the end ofthe week. I will have walked miles and will sleep forever when I get home.
Still waiting for Jim to get up. We were woken incredibly early this morningby what appeared to be an old vagrant type saying, "I can't find my glasses".Bastard! It didn't help that we didn't get back here til 2am. Times Squareat night is a sight to behold; i was like Coruscant.
Date: Thu, 19 May 2005 09:49:57 -0400
From: ***************
Subject: Re: Yawk!
To: ************************
Hey *******,really packing it in. After going to Tom's Restaurant yesterday we wenton a tour of Grand Central. I found it really interesting but Jim less so. He's not into the design of buildings so much. I'm in awe of things saying"wow,look at that... art deco"
"So. What's art deco?"
Trouble is I couldn't define it properly.
After Grand Central (whch i know is not Art Deco - that was the ESB) we wentdown to The West/Greenwich Village. Some village; it's fucking massive.Really cool place. Stopped for half an hour or saw watching a street performer.He was in character but it was the character of an hispanic who loved Queen. He did juggling and shit. Enjoyable and a good break from the previous days walking and walking.
We saw Cafe Wha? which looked a bit shit. Found the exterior of the Friends appartment and took some photos. The Village is home to Stonewall Place (yes, that Stonewall). There was a few around. Jim took a picture of me under a sign for Gay Street.
After that we headed back up Broadway and Fifth Avenue til we got to Times Square at night. A sight to behold. We were looking for a comedy club. One seemed to have a woman playing (bound not to be funny) and (the famous)Caroline's had a drag act on. We went in and left when we found out theact. I'd used the restroom first. Had to tip the restroom guy.
We went back to The Village on the subway after that and walked and walkedtil we found an Irish bar. Round that area we felt surer going to an Irishbar rather than a potential gay bar. Few gays could resist a hunk like me...
Waiting for Jim to get up. We were awoken by some old bastards in our roomlast night. One of whom I thought was a bum but he's using a credit cardnext to me now. Who knows?
I'm gonna get Jim up so we can go to Liberty Island etc.
Date: Fri, 20 May 2005 19:35:36 -0400
From: ***************
Subject: hey now
To: "*****************" <********************>
Awight,
just a quick hello. Been shopiing today. Got some Pumas, Levis and some CDs. Nowt special on the CD front. Have only found Anchorman 2 disker in one place and it was $40. Too much.
Having a good time but tired from lack of full nights' sleep and much walking. Still going though. Work is more tiring for some reason. I'll sleep when I get back though. Only got a fwew minutes on this and I'm too tired to write another witty chapter in my travelogue. Plus, I got no replies from the last one!
Cup Final at 10am tomorrow. Not right! Off out in a bit.
Money's running out.
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